1991 Field Report
(Part 3)
by
Jean-Luc Pilon
NOGAP Archaeologist
Canadian Museum of Civilization


Travaillant Lake to Inuvik

Archaeological survey work in the southwest Anderson Plain during the first phase of the NOGAP Archaeology Project focussed heavily on the upland area which forms the headwaters of the region's major drainage systems (Pilon 1991:89). In an effort to broaden the scope of the reconnaissance data and sample a wider range of physical environments, a survey of portions of the Peel Plain Lowlands was planned which would begin with a reassessment of sites previously recorded immediately south of Travaillant Lake (Millar and Fedirchuk 1975). This was to be complemented by a reconnaissance of Big and Sucker Lakes, located immediately west of the lower reaches of the Travaillant River, and an examination various locales along the Mackenzie River itself in order to acquire a better understanding of potential site locations there. Finally, an ethnographic inquiry conducted into the former use of fish traps (Andre 1991) was to be followed by an attempt to locate a site on Tree River where fish traps were believed to have been used.

With this overly complex plan in mind we set out on the afternoon of the 3rd of July to examine Big and Sucker Lakes for the potential of establishing a base camp on either lake. This is an area which was fully engulfed by the forest fires of 1986 and presented a desolate appearance. An insurmountable difficulty however lay in the impossibility of landing our Cessna 185; quite simply, the waters of these lakes were judged to be too shallow. It was thus decided to forgo their examination. Moreover, as we flew down their lengths and followed the outlet stream to the Travaillant River, it was observed that this stream is virtually impassible, being overgrown with thick brush.

However, it must be pointed out that these lakes are noted for their excellent spring muskrat hunting (Gabe André, personal communication 1991). Furthermore, as we overflew the lakes, literally thousands of ducks were seen to cover them. The stream leading to Travaillant River is also well known for its stock of fish (Willie Simon Modeste, personal communication 1991). In short, their potential for past use remains quite interesting.
We then decided to establish a base camp on Andrew Lake in order to relocate Hidlerman's 1973 sites (Millar and Fedirchuk 1973), and then descend the Travaillant River to its mouth on the Mackenzie. Following our investigations at that locality, we moved downstream to the mouth of Tree River where we met Alestine Andre who was spending the summer fishing with relatives. We had intended to ascend the Tree River to the first forks where in former times fish traps might have been located. Unfortunately, less than 5 kilometres up that river, the waters became fairly shallow, making travel with our ZODIAC difficult. We also bagan to encounter trees felled by beaver. With the prospect of even additional beaver activity, it was decided to abandon this portion of the plan.


The remainder of the trip, which eventually took us to Inuvik early on the morning of the 17th of July, was spent descending the Mackenzie River and spending some time at major river mouths and other interesting localities along the way; Rabbit Hay River, Pierre's Creek, Rengleng River. In this fashion we examined 24 localities and discovered 19 new archaeological sites. More importantly, we acquired a better understanding of the potential for site location along this major watercourse. We will thus be in a better position to further test archaeological site potential along the lower Mackenzie River and propose potential models and ways of protecting the heritage resources along this river.

During an archaeological survey linked to a proposed Mackenzie Highway corridor, Mr. G. Hilderman identified 7 archaeological sites between the outlet of Travaillant Lake and the outlet of Andrew Lake, the next lake down from Travaillant Lake. We attempted to relocate a number of these sites in order to determine if they had been affected by the 1986 forest fire, which ravaged part of this region, and obtain more meaningful samples from these.

Andrew Lake

Field No: HILD-1
Borden No: MjTl-1


The outlet of Travaillant Lake is characterized by a broad shallow basin which literally spills into the Travaillant River through a relatively narrow opening. The result is a shallow stream with very swift currents for approximately 200 metres. We investigated the east shore of the stream, about 100 metres below the lake.

Strewn along the sandy shore were sections of
gill nets with wood floats which had been either abandoned there or torn away from some more distant location by storms. The fetch along this large lake from the north must result in quite violent wave activity, especially when these waves reach the southern end of the lake.

A low, willow-covered bench occurred east of the active beach. There evidence of recent historic use was noted. Further inland, on a slightly higher terrace about 20 metres from the river four shovel test pits within a 5 metre radius yielded evidence of possible prehistoric activity. At the base of a thick sod which measured between 15 and 25 cm, fish remains were recovered. In one of these test pits, a thick layer of charcoal was encountered which had calcined and fresh bone associated. In another, a possible chert flake was found.

An examination of the aerial photograph of the southern portion of Travaillant Lake is quite interesting as regards the outlet stream. Taken in what appears to be the spring, the lake immediately adjacent to the stream is ice free and the sand shallows are quite visible. This suggests that the strong currents at this location are sufficient to maintain a thin ice cover in the fall and open this area early in the spring. The evidence of recent and past fishing suggests that a fishery here was and remains a productive activity.

Field No: HILD-2
Borden No: MjTl-2


This site was easily relocated, but our investigation failed to yield additional artifacts. The historic cabin foundation consists of a rectangular outline which measured about 4 metres in depth and approximately 3 metres across the face. The cabin is located less than 2 metres from the edge of a low terrace behind a sand spit. Shovel test pits were placed in front and to the east of the slight depression. These revealed a 20-25 cm thick sphagnum sod with wood fragments at its base. Old looking axe-cut stumps were quite numerous in the general vicinity.

Field No: 91JLP-25
Borden No: MjTl-8


While descending the Travaillant River, our attention was attracted to a locality where an adze-cut stump was noted near the edge of the high river bank. While it is difficult to describe the actual location of this site, it is on the east side of the river, about half way down to Andrew Lake (roughly 2 km).

As it turned out, this stump was one of a few adze-cut and even more numerous axe-cut stumps. Further inspection resulted in the discovery of the collapsed supports of a rectangular tent on the order of 8 feet x 10 feet with a pair of charred stove supports. Nearby we noted an OGDEN'S Tobacco tin and a pole structure said by Willie Simon Modeste to be the remains of a dog house. An adze-cut stump located on the slumping bank may indicate that a portion of the older component of this site has long since disappeared into the Travaillant River.

Field No: HILD-4
Borden No: MjTl-3


We briefly inspected the cabin foundation reported by Hilderman. The 1986 forest fire had burned throughout the site area and little remained. However, the location was easily relocated in part due to the historic artifacts which now lie strewn on the surface over a wide area. Mr. Simon Modeste believes this was the cabin of "Old Blaise", a former member of the Arctic Red River Gwich'in Band.

Field No: HILD-5
Borden No: MjTl-4


The remains of this cabin are still untouched by forest fires and additional temporary pole structures and trails were noted in the general area. It should be pointed out however that the site is no longer about 10 metres from the edge of the lake but more like 5 metres. Erosion has been particularly severe along this side of Andrew Lake.

Field No: HILD-6,7
Borden No: MjTl-5,6


Nothing of these two sites could be relocated. However, about 300 metres south of where HILD-6 was supposed to be located, an extensive scatter of historic debris dating to perhaps the 1950s was found over a broad area, on the east shore, at the very head of the outlet stream.

Field No: 91JLP-26
Borden No: MjTl-9


The stream which links Travaillant Lake and Andrew Lake follows a twisting, circuitous route. The southern third of this stream runs down the centre of an ever narrowing point which projects into the northern portion of Andrew Lake for at least 2.3 kilometres. Today the stream no longer reaches the very tip of the point but has breached the high banks about half way down.

A semi-subterranean feature was located near the top of the stream bank on the east shore of the last major bend in the former outlet). The structure lies between 5 and 7 metres from the steep bank of the river. A raised ridge or berm is clearly visible on all four sides of the rectangular depression which measured 1 m 40 x 0.60 m and 0.20 m deep. The berm is more pronounced along the sides than at the extremities. The maximum area covered by the berm is 3 m 80 x 3 m 20. The long axis of the feature is oriented in a general E-W direction.

Three test pits were excavated into the structure's berm; one on either lateral berm, and one at the extremity closest to the river. In the end berm test pit, three poles with their bark still adhering were found immediately under the sod. These lay parallel to each other and slightly askew to the long axis of the feature. Underlying these poles was a layer of fine sand (10 cm) under which a thin humus level was found (2-4 cm). At the base of this humus layer 7 small siliceous argillite flakes were found along with a small pole which lay at the same angle as the upper poles. The next soil layer was a fine yellow sand/silt of from 3 to 5 cm in thickness. The final soil horizon was a light brown sand of unknown depth.

The test pit placed along the south lateral berm yielded a similar stratigraphic sequence beginning with poles just under the sod. These lay in the same angle as those in the end berm test pit. Under these poles was a layer of brown sand measuring up to 25 cm in thickness which overlay a humus layer of 5-7 cm in thickness. In this organic horizon a single siliceous argillite flake was recovered along with a section of a birch bark container.

In the second lateral berm test pit placed on the north side of the structure, the stratigraphy was essentially the same as that on the south side, including the poles and their orientation. However, no artifacts were recovered.

Lastly, a test pit was placed about 2 metres from the structure, in the direction of the river. There, fire-cracked rocks were found at the base of the sod.

It is interesting to have found poles with bark still adhering since it permitted us to identify the tree species as spruce. Interestingly, good spruce trees are fairly rare in the immediate site vicinity where birch trees predominate. No adze-cut stumps were seen.

Field No: 91JLP-27
Borden No: MjTl-10


A second semi-subterranean structure was located about 50 metres further down the former outlet stream from 91JLP-26, on the west bank of the river. This feature consists of a square depression apparently cut into the top of the 3 metre high river bank. The fourth side appears to be missing, perhaps due to erosion and slumping. There are no visible berms and the dimensions of the 1.2 metre deep depression are 3 m 80 x 4 m.

A test trench was excavated in the centre of the sphagnum-filled structure. Under the thick sphagnum carpet (20 cm), a carbonized layer of moss (10-15 cm) was encountered at the base of which 7 fire-cracked rocks, a pocket of finely crushed calcined bone and 2 bird (duck?) coracoids were discovered. Branches were found which seemed to be lying on a level of silt, but further excavation was impossible due to permafrost.

This feature is without a doubt man-made, but represents a unique type to date in the whole of the southwest Anderson Plain. Comparative structures do not immediately present themselves, especially given the very limited data available from this site. However, at a very crude level, this structure is somewhat reminiscent of historic semi-subterranean structures described by McFayden Clark and Clark (1974) in Alaska and perhaps even in a general way with moss houses known for the Gwich'in of Yukon and Peel River (Osgood 1936).

Field No: 91JLP-28
Borden No: MjTl-11


A recent camp was noted on the west side of the outlet of Andrew Lake. This camp is situated approximately 50 metres from a sandy beach in an otherwise flat and featureless terrain. A flat-bottomed plywood ratting canoe was lying near standing tent supports. An assortement of tables and hide stretchers lay in the general vicinity. This camp was last used within the past 20 years by Mr. Gabe André of Arctic Red River in springtime for hunting muskrats. The skeletal remains of caribou were also observed lying on the surface.